Google Patents US5899279A - Tractor electronic linkage control system Then it actually keeps a more even furrow depth along with more constant draft.US5899279A - Tractor electronic linkage control system A moldboard plow works fine without using it unless your ground is up and down where the front bottom wants to shallow out over every hump. Ninety nine out of a hundred operators never use it and I always wished it was an option as it just makes for a lot of extra expensive unneeded parts to fail. One of the most misunderstood parts of a tractor is draft control. Other wise, push it forward and forget the darn thing. It is just spring loaded internally to return it to neutral.Īs far as the draft control lever, if you intend to use draft control for moldboard plowing, you will have to fix it to hold position. If it stood for a long time with that spool pulled out, you may have to take the top off and dig into the valve and polish it up. There are other ways to let the hitch down but some of them upset the drop poppet adjustment so you have to re adjust it again. Pretty hard to explain how it did it just be careful because hitch might come down rapidly if the valve pops back in. I used to reach in through the back and push on the mechanism that pulls the spool out when using the lever to raise the hitch. I you never touched the hitch mechanism and did not have the top off, your spool in the draft control valve is stuck.
OK, I did not know whether you had any of the hitch apart while working on other things or not. One would be adjustments, other most likely stuck draft control spool or components assembled wrong. I also have tightened the external adjustments bolts so they contact all the time (no gap) to eleminate torsion bar movement.Īs far as hitch being raised, well, is it all the way up and system still on pressure, or is it possible to lift the hitch manually a little. I even removed enough linkage internally to eleminate draft control on one pesky 1256 with worn out mechanism that was giving a guy problems when getting into a negative load with his snow blower. I did a lot of different repairs and adjustments through that opening over the years and some were very tough. I believe it could be done though but would need to look at one with it on to see just where it hooks. That spring can be added to all tractors but not sure how easy it would be through the third arm hole.
John deere draft control adjustment series#
On the 86 series they added a balance spring onto the internal linkage. IH increased the surface and I think changed the material of the friction control device on the 66 series but it didn't work very good either. The adjustment to hold the draft control lever in light position on cat 3 hitches was not very good. When moving the draft control lever to the light position, and the spring inside slacks a bit, and the upper arm moves, shouldn’t the lower arm (that’s attached to the torsion bar) move as well? And what’s making the draft control lever immediately move back to the heavy position when you let it go? Any pics?
What has me frustrated is that I’m not sure I’ve wrapped my head around the mechanics of the draft control inside the tractor. The upper lever is behind the lower lever like it should be. Now before you veterans poise your fingers above the keyboard ready to respond, the draft sensing levers inside the rear end are in the correct position.
The 3 point is stuck in the raised position and the draft lever won’t stay moved from the heavy position. For example, I had to split it to put some spacers on the reverse rack in the transmission. Ive has to do several things that required a lot, but weren’t that big of a deal. I’ve been a John Deere man all my life, so this is my first red tractor. I have a 1466 that I’ve sort of ‘resurrected.’ The tractor’s in good shape, but has been mistreated structurally sound, sheet metal’s straigh, starts good, etc.
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